This is the tale of two cities – both renovated to their original splendour but each with its own unique ambience.
The old city of Carcassonne, about 22 kilometres south of Mazamet, was added to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites in 1997. It’s impressive and swarms of tourists buzz around the site every year – including the day we visited – All Saint’s Day or November 1st.
Much of the old fortress of Carcassonne, however, is mostly mid-19th century Disneyland – the vision of architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc. The fortified city dates from 453AD and was ransacked continously throughout the centuries, and by the mid-1800s, was slatted for demolition due to its pathetic (read – in ruins) condition. There was, however, a public outcry and the city was saved and rebuilt. When it was reconstructed, the controversy surrounded its authenticity (which continues to this day. )
Viollet-le-Duc didn’t think it necessary to rebuild according to the historical records, so much of the fortress walls and citadels are his “vision” of what a medieval fortress should look like – and critics eagerly point out that the roofs of the towers would not have been pointed, and that slate would not have been used and that arrow slits were not part of the original fortress. As we walked around the perimeter of the walled city, we could see the delineation between the “old ruins” and “new construction.” To see 19th century drawings before the renovations, go to: http://www.carcassonne.culture.fr/
The”old city” of Carcassonne was crowded with tourists on All Saint’s Day, and amid the expensive knick-knack shops and cafes on its narrow streets, it was difficult to know what was authentic and what was 19th century-fantasy . Nevertheless, the entire site was impressive!
A few days later, we decided to travel to a small town called Revel, about 25 kilometres to the southwest of Mazamet, to see the halles in the middle of the medieval town, an arched medieval market building with some of the original timbers.
On the way there, we serendipitously stopped at a small village called Soreze. It has become one of our favourite places in Southern France so far in our travels!
The car park, well-maintained and brimming with flowers and trees, was almost empty on the drizzly Saturday when we visited.
Soreze was established in the 8th century because of the nearby Benedictine Abbey, built in the foothills of the Berniquat (Montagne Noirs.) It was ransacked many times, first by the Normans and then by mercenaries in the mid-1300s. From 1776 to 1792, it was established as the home of the Ecoles royales militaires by Louis XVI (where Simon Bolivar, the famous South American liberator was educated.) In the mid-19th century, it became a craftsmen centre and today, it continues that tradition. Art galleries and textile shops are sprinkled among the patisseries and boulangeries.
The photographs above do not do justice to the ambience of Soreze, where 15th and 16th century homes have been renovated to their original splendour. Throughout the town, historical plaques explain the importance and significance of each site. It is just a glorious medieval town and was an unexpected treasure.
Revel, by the way, was disappointing compared to Soreve, but a photo of the market is included .
A bientot!
