Posted by: Lynda | November 20, 2007

Medievalled Out?

As we motored along a small road toward Montpellier, winding our way through the valleys along the river’s edge, we discovered our Southern France ”medieval-village” saturation point. 

“What does the guidebook say about this medieval village with the stunningly beautiful fortified wall?” asks Bill.

Referring to the Rough Guide, Lynda replies, “Cathedral was built in 1254, partially destroyed by the Crusaders; bridge and defensive walls still intact; some original timbers still in place in covered medieval market place at the centre beside the 16th century fountain…”

“Want to stop?”

“If you want to.”

There is a silence – it’s the ” ho-hum, yawn, just another medieval village” pause.

“OK, let’s keep going.”

At the beginning of our trip, we stopped at almost every village “of interest” but now, with further afield destinations in mind, we have become more discriminating.

Two medieval villages, however, we particularly enjoyed were Minerve and Mirepoix. Sadly, both are known as major sites of Cathar massacres.

Minerve is a tiny fortified village built on a small island in the middle of a very deep gorge of the River Cesse. minerve3small.jpg

In 1210, about 120 Cathars fleeing from Simon de Montfort, took refuge in the town. When it was finally taken by the Catholic crusaders, rather than surrender their beliefs, the Cathars committed mass suicide by jumping into the fires built by the crusaders.  It’s all about “location, location, location” for this amazing village. It is breathtakingly beautiful.minerve1small.jpg

Mirepoix is located in rolling-hills farm country. 

mirepoix1small.jpg

Built in 1290 as a stronghold for a nobleman of the Levis family,  broad-arched, colourful timber-framed houses line the perimeter of the village square.  The 14th century Maison des Consuls, originally a courthouse, prison and town council chambers, is now a hotel. 

 mirepoix4small.jpg

Over 100 wooden heads or faces are carved into the end of each of the supporting beams. mirepoix6small.jpg

The baroque cathedral of St Maurice (started in the 14th century and consecrated in 1509) looms up in the centre of the Place beside the wrought iron market hall.

 mirepoix3small.jpg

 All the shop windows had beautiful displays of local products – including Mirepoix foie gras and cans of cassoulet.mirepoix2small.jpg

On our daily excursions, we aim to get back to our gite in Mazamet before nightfall so we find ourselves on the road in the late afternoon. The southern sun is truly golden against the dramatic ultramarine blue of the Languedoc-Roussillon sky. 

  mirepoix5small.jpg

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